Crazy French Gambling Games – The first time Rudy Tarditi won a major championship, he was only eight years old. On a family trip to the Casino de Monte-Carlo, his father just stopped him at the grand entrance and offered him one franc. He gave young Rudy a choice. She either leaves the money or gets his dad to go inside, find the slot machine and play it. Rudy went to gamble and waited patiently in the square until his father finally reappeared – two francs in hand.
Ten years later, Rudy remains in the casino. But today he is its general manager. Dressed and dressed, he celebrates the victory on the balcony of his office, under the strong Munich sun.
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“It was my first casino experience,” Tarditi tells me. “And two francs? It was important. Unbelievable! But then my father told me never to play again. So I didn’t. I haven’t played here since.”
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Even if I wanted to, I couldn’t. Gambling is contractually prohibited for all employees of the Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer (the organization that owns and operates most of Monaco’s hotels, restaurants and beach clubs). It is also illegal for any Monegasque, of which Tarditi is currently a citizen, to bet at the Casino de Monte-Carlo.
“It’s for our protection,” he shrugs, explaining that when the casino opened in 1863, the ruler who led its construction, Prince Charles III, decided to – “Monte-Carlo” is literally called “Mount Charles”. that his countrymen should never play. The project was supposed to bring wealth; not an accident.
“Monaco’s first move was to legalize gambling,” says Tarditi. “Until then, tourism did not exist here – because Monaco is only accessible by boat. But Prince Charles III was smart enough to create this magic and build a new place within the city. A place where everything is possible.”
But Charles was helpful, adds the casino manager. French businessman François Blanc, who built the famous casino in Frankfurt called ‘Spielbank Bad Homburg’, was sent to Monaco with the task of making a similar noise on these shores. He later earned the nickname “The Wizard of Monte-Carlo” after successfully luring travelers from nearby Nice here.
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Which sets the hour. Step off Tarditi’s balcony, go back to the casino and you’ll find her hanging from the roof of the ‘salles de jeux’ palace. Golden and elegant, it is the world’s most iconic casino clock (in fact, casinos rarely contain clocks). But this development was necessary; so former gamblers can save time and, if there is no road or rail, take the last ferry of the day from Monaco.
Ships like this still ferry visitors around the Riviera today. You can hear them over the sparkling water through the casino’s expansive windows (another downside; most casinos don’t have any windows). But how could the Casino de Monte-Carlo hold its own against the world with such views? Instead, the facility embraced its saltwater landscape and created expansive outdoor patios with water-filled gaming tables.
These retreats, Tarditi continues, are just the first of many luxury casino benefits. From the imposing marble-columned entrance hall to those ocean-view balconies, the building spans several cavernous playrooms—each awash in gilded paint and upholstered in colorful patterned carpets. As elegant and beautiful as it is, this decor is another customer Tarditi counts on her fingers.
“They come for history. For style. For legends. For the great art of the game. And of course for James Bond. “…
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Downstairs, in the ‘Salle Blanche’, Giuseppe Cavaliere mixes drinks behind a large, shiny bar. The place was once a famous literary salon, and Cavaliere, like Tarditi, invokes Bond’s influence. The bartender says he spends most of his day serving strong vodka martinis.
“Shaking, not shaking,” he laughs. “Many, many people have been asking about this cocktail – ever since Pierce Brosnan drank it here in GoldenEye.”
Martinis are just one of the epicurean delights at Casino de Monte-Carlo. The Cavaliere has two bars and the ‘Salon Rose’ restaurant – which preserves the traditional Tartar yellow beef, with sea bream and sea bass caught from the sea – has an oil-painted ceiling brown with cigar smoke. From the cornice down is the perfect dining room. But during the renovations, the mural remained intact, hidden behind that smokescreen and serving as a vivid, emotional reminder of the casino’s more bacchanalian days.
But back to 007. Because more Bonds than Brosnan have rocked the hallowed halls of Monte-Carlo. Sean Connery’s speech about visiting a spy in Never Say Never Again and, although not filmed in Monaco, the first iteration of the secret agent (played by Barry Nelson in the 1954 episode Climax!, directed by Ian Fleming with the adaptation) was a casino. Much to Cavaliere’s chagrin, Nelson’s Bond ordered and released the water.
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Because bartenders are passionate about mixing martinis. He, almost all the employees, enjoy the casino’s relationship with Bond. And when he moved here from San Remo five years ago, he did it for that “prestige”.
“We only close each table in the casino once,” adds Cavaliere. “When the gambling is over, we’re done”. Officially, it’s 4:00 most nights — though the casino pushes it to 6:00 when the richest, high-stakes players demand it. The waiter steps away and takes his tray on outstretched fingers. The music of the trumpets changes; Italian classics give way to heavy jazz. It’s John Barry’s score, flashier and sleeker than the supercar headlights flashing on the outside.
This is the entrance square to the casino. It was completely renovated two years ago and, although Anish Kapoor’s 1999 “Mirror of the Sky” remains, the rest of the palm-lined area is pedestrianized; it is covered with this beautiful rough stone. Visit today and the only cars you’ll find parked on the Place du Casino are the eight motorbikes parked in prime spots outside its gates. That’s the job of the ‘voituriers’, the casino’s fleet of impeccably dressed valet parking attendants.
“And these rooms,” says the sun-kissed valet Mikael Verrando, “are for our very good customers. These customers will always have such privileges – even if they arrive in a Smart car.
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Verrando, handsome in his pure white uniform, started working at the casino eight years ago. He started out as a doorman before becoming a private chauffeur for VIPs. He has been a ‘voter’ for the last four years – and he is happy.
“You drive all those fancy cars?” nods to the approaching Aston Martin. “How can I not be happy? I think they hired me because I’m a calm driver; never stressed. Although most modern cars have electronics – devices that help you drive. It’s much more difficult with older cars.”
But even the oldest cars are not afraid of Verrando. He might stifle his excitement when he brings the Ferrari Pista, his favorite supercar, onto the pitch, but as a born-and-bred Monegasque, the valet has spent his life surrounded by incredible vehicles.
The annual Monaco Grand Prix is of course eagerly awaited by every ‘voiturier’. Place du Casino is closed during race weekends, so visitors collect cars at the nearby Hotel Hermitage. Casino guests are then taken to the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, taken to a secret elevator and taken through a secret underground tunnel beneath the square. When Winston Churchill visited the hotel, he used the same route, next to the gambling tables (where Aristotle Onassis allegedly financed his gambling).
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And yet, while the addition of Formula 1 may keep some traditions alive, the field is never short of high caliber cars. “Here,” says Verrando, “all year round we see the most expensive cars in the world. Ferrari Monza. Bugatti Chiron. Porsche. Bentley. Lamborghini.”
And each is equally praised and protected. A valet watches over the key locker at all times, even though Monaco is known for its security. Verrando says there are police and cameras everywhere. There’s also a prison here – albeit a prison overlooking the sea.
But security must be strong. In the casino of the sixteenth century, many men tried to “break the bank”, often in unseemly ways. In 1891, the fraudster Charles Wells was successful – he earned fame, great suspicion and the sum of 13 million euros. Today, money changes hands in elegant cash registers lined with gaming floors and crowned with the word “Caisse” in art deco style. Special guests also have a host team available – to collect almost anything they want.
Thomas Bonafede smiled: “Whether it’s Diet Coke or a helicopter”. As leader of the VIP team, Bonafede fulfilled wishes from the fantastic to the Persian. “It can be anything – within the law”.
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Bonafede, who sits in the “Salle Schmit” casino and greets every passing guest, explains how a recent request forced him to lobby for a change in the law. The “elderly” VIP refused to visit unless he could walk his dogs nearby
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